What we tell our neighbours

Yes. High-security cylinders with security pins, sidebars or restricted keyways are designed to slow an intruder, and they do slow a locksmith too, but they open with the right technique, a decoder made for that keyway, or as a last resort a precise drill through the cylinder followed by a like-for-like replacement. Bring any key card or code card that came with the lock, since restricted keys are cut from those records rather than copied.

Sometimes, though a deadlatch that will not catch at closing and a bolt that refuses to withdraw at opening are different mechanisms, not automatically the same fault. A door dropped on its pivots or a cam slipped behind the cylinder can affect either one; a closer stopping short of the strike explains a latch that will not catch but not a bolt that will not retract. The locksmith checks each symptom on its own during the visit and tests the door closing under its own weight before leaving.

Put both halves of the key somewhere safe, note whether the door or vehicle is locked, and leave the keyway alone. If it is bitter cold, keep the storm door closed so the lock is not taking freezing rain. Have identification ready, or vehicle papers for a car. If the door is open, stay near it. That is all; the extraction goes smoother for a lock nobody has poked at.

Whether the police have been called and any occurrence number; whether everyone is safe and the property is empty of intruders; which opening was forced and whether it closes at all; whether the damage is to the lock, the frame, the door or the glass; whether keys, remotes or codes were taken; whether you own, rent or manage the property; and whether there is glass beside the door. Photos on your phone help the locksmith bring the right hardware.

In most cases, yes. A bolt held by the door is freed by relieving the pressure on the door. A cylinder clogged with grit or ice is cleaned and thawed until it turns. A failed tailpiece is bypassed and replaced. The lock stays on the door with its finish and your existing keys. A plug or shell that is worn, damaged, or eaten through by corrosion or earlier forcing is what has to be replaced, and that is explained before any work starts.

Plan on an hour or two for a typical house with three or four cylinders, including the walk-through, identification, pinning, cutting and testing. Each additional cylinder adds a little, as does swapping a cylinder to bring a mismatched door onto the same key, resetting a homeowner-rekeyable lock or clearing a garage opener. The locksmith gives a realistic window on the phone once the list of doors is known.

Yes, with your landlord's agreement, which is what the tenancy rules here expect before a tenant changes a lock. Most landlords are glad to consent when a key has gone missing or a former roommate has moved out, and the locksmith will want to hear that the landlord knows and will be holding one of the new keys. The rekey itself runs the same as for an owner, and a short note listing the doors done is handy to pass to the landlord.

Yes. Bring the box, the template and the instructions, and tell the locksmith the model beforehand so the bore and backset can be checked against your door. If the kit turns out to need a larger hole or a different faceplate than the door has, the locksmith adapts the door or suggests a matching model. Hardware bought online sometimes arrives set for a different door thickness, which is a small adjustment on site.

Yes. The deadbolt and the knob or lever are separate locks in separate bores, so one can be replaced while the other stays. The new deadbolt can be pinned to work on the same key as the knob if the keyways are compatible, and its finish can be matched to the knob so the door looks intended. Replacing the deadbolt first is a sensible order, since it does most of the securing.

A drop of the right lock oil into the latch and bolt once a year is plenty. If the lock has a pin-tumbler cylinder, use whatever lubricant that cylinder's maker specifies, since some take a dry graphite or PTFE product and others a specified liquid one. Try the latch and deadbolt each spring and fall; if the bolt starts to scrape, the strike wants a small adjustment before anything is strained. Keep bit keys out of a pocket where they bend.

Some can, and the locksmith will say which. Sliding patio doors use a hook or a pin rather than a deadbolt, so they take purpose-made electronic latches rather than a standard smart deadbolt. Multipoint doors, common on newer fibreglass and steel entries, lock at several points with one lever; a growing number of smart handles are built for them, and compatibility with your specific gearbox is checked first. Gates take weather-rated keypad locks designed for outdoor posts.

It is worth doing, since a move-out is exactly the situation a rekey is meant to cover: a former tenant's key still operates the same lock everyone currently living there relies on. Rekeying resets the cylinder to a fresh combination and issues new keys to current residents, without requiring a whole new lock in most cases. Bringing any other gates or doors that share that key along at the same time keeps the whole property on one current combination.

Yes, either during the same visit or afterward, as long as it is cut from the new cylinder's combination rather than copied from an already-worn key. Cutting it while the locksmith is present avoids a second stop at a hardware store and confirms the spare works before anyone relies on it.

Each suits a different way of working. A mechanical dial has no battery to fail and a long service life, but only ever holds one combination at a time. An electronic keypad allows separate codes for different staff and an audit trail on some models, at the cost of needing battery changes. Either can be fitted with a genuinely high security rating; the choice usually comes down to how many people need independent access.

Servicing works through the same checks as a new installation in reverse: the bolt-work is opened, cleaned, and lubricated, the lock is tested and adjusted if it binds, the anchoring underneath is confirmed or added if it was never done, and batteries are replaced if the lock is electronic. Many older safes have solid steel bodies that outlast the mechanism inside them, which makes servicing a practical route rather than starting over.

The mechanical resistance of the cylinder does not change, but blanks may become openly available, so copy control weakens. Manufacturers issue new patented keyways as older ones expire, and the usual answer is to move to the next generation by changing cylinders and keys while keeping the lock bodies. Your locksmith notes the patent term at handover so the date is on the calendar rather than a surprise years later.

Yes. Gate, cage and shutter padlocks that accept repinning can share the back-door key, and the locks on filing cabinets, drawers and display cases can be grouped so the people who work at them carry a single key while the manager holds a separate one. Mailbox cylinders are small and are usually swapped for new rather than repinned. Everything is entered on the chart, so one document covers the whole premises.

Usually yes, if spare capacity was planned into the keying platform from the start. A new hire is normally handed a copy of the bitting their role already calls for, and a realistic new door can be pinned to accept a combination already reserved for that purpose. A system pinned to its absolute limit on day one has less room to grow, and adding a level to existing doors later can mean repinning cylinders that are already in daily use.

A single standalone door is usually finished within a day, including testing and training. A building with several networked openings, cabling to run and a controller to program takes longer, and is often planned across more than one visit so cabling, hardware, and software configuration each get proper attention rather than being rushed through in one pass.

Panic hardware is a door-latching device, usually a crossbar or touchpad running most of the door's width, that releases the latch the moment someone pushes on it from the inside. It is built and tested so a light, even push anywhere along the bar opens the door, which is why it is chosen for doors serving rooms with enough people that fumbling for a key during an exit is not acceptable.

A mortise lock has its whole mechanism, latch, deadbolt and sometimes a separate handle function, built into one case that sits inside a pocket cut into the door's edge. A cylindrical lockset is a bored-in unit, simpler to service, common on standard commercial and residential doors alike. Which one your door takes depends on how it was originally prepped, not on preference alone.

A professional opening leaves nothing behind. Door-edge guards sit between tools and paint, the air wedge is inflated in small steps so the frame flexes evenly and returns to shape, and the reach tool is padded. Where the car has a door cylinder, a matched pick-and-decoder turns it exactly as a key would. Any mark already present is pointed out before work begins, and the door, glass and seal are checked over at the end.

The blade was copied but the chip was not. A hardware-store duplicate cut onto a plain blank has the right teeth, so it turns the locks and the ignition, yet the immobilizer hears no answer and shuts the engine off after a moment. The remedy is a proper transponder key: a blank with the correct chip, cut to your blade and programmed to the car, or a chip cloned from a working original.

Where the transponder supports it, the chip in the working key is read and its data cloned onto a fresh chip, sometimes with vehicle-specific data pulled from the car to help. Where cloning is not supported for that particular vehicle and chip, the locksmith instead connects through the diagnostic port and has the car's own security module enrol a freshly coded chip as a new, independently authorized key.

Replacing coin-cell batteries as soon as a fob's range starts to feel shorter, rather than waiting for it to go completely dark, is the simplest habit. Keeping fobs off a keyring crowded with heavy metal keys reduces wear on the case and buttons as well. Since fobs from the same purchase batch often age together, a fading one is worth treating as an early warning for the others.

Nothing changes about it. A spare is added alongside the existing key without clearing or altering anything already stored in the vehicle's memory. The only keys that get cleared are the ones you specifically identify as lost, stolen, or no longer wanted, and that is confirmed with you before any clearing happens.

Most ignition lock repair happens wherever the vehicle already is, a driveway, a lot, a curb, since the tools travel well even though the mechanism is reached from inside the vehicle, at the column or instrument panel. A shop becomes necessary when specialized dealer equipment, an electronic diagnosis, parts availability or the mechanical repair itself calls for it.

Yes, this is usually the preferred approach. A replacement cylinder is set or selected to match the key you already carry, so you continue using the same key and fob across the whole vehicle instead of adjusting to a new one for a single door.

Each wafer represents one depth the key has to hit precisely for the lock to turn, so a lock with more wafers has more combinations and takes a little longer to decode or pick than a simpler one. Most motorcycle locks use around five wafers, and manufacturers sometimes space the depth increments further apart specifically to reduce the chance that an unrelated key happens to fit. This is why an ordinary-looking key rarely works in an unrelated bike.